Glad my letter got to ya alright!
Punched holes, I don’t mind; What really drives me mad are dirty typeslugs. O, o, q, Q, a, d, b, D, B, 0, R, e, all the holes in those letters being a cold dark void!
Heat shrink is a good option for cracked and rutted platens. Keep in mind that the polyolefin heat shrink will produce a hardish platen – not super hard but not buttery soft. I’ve gotten readings on my cheapo durometer of around 92-98 Shore A.
I’ve got some 6:1 heat shrink that I’ve used in a pinch. I think it’s 3″ and will shrink down to about the thickness of most portable platen original rubber. The only problem I have with it is it needs a good (like a Master industrial heat gun or you need to be careful with a propane torch to shrink it. It’s adhesive lined so it will not slip once applied. I mostly use one layer of heat shrink (adhesive lined if I don’t think I’ll ever send it to JJ Short and regular if I plan to send it out.) over a hard or minimally cracked platen.
Glad my letter got to ya alright!
Punched holes, I don’t mind; What really drives me mad are dirty typeslugs. O, o, q, Q, a, d, b, D, B, 0, R, e, all the holes in those letters being a cold dark void!
Heat shrink is a good option for cracked and rutted platens. Keep in mind that the polyolefin heat shrink will produce a hardish platen – not super hard but not buttery soft. I’ve gotten readings on my cheapo durometer of around 92-98 Shore A.
I’ve got some 6:1 heat shrink that I’ve used in a pinch. I think it’s 3″ and will shrink down to about the thickness of most portable platen original rubber. The only problem I have with it is it needs a good (like a Master industrial heat gun or you need to be careful with a propane torch to shrink it. It’s adhesive lined so it will not slip once applied. I mostly use one layer of heat shrink (adhesive lined if I don’t think I’ll ever send it to JJ Short and regular if I plan to send it out.) over a hard or minimally cracked platen.